Seoul-e Salgi Wihayeo

This is a good spot for dinner in Hannam-ogeori, or just as much for a second stop after moving on from somewhere else — there's a solid lineup of light snacks that suit that kind of drinking pace. The sashimi was fresh, and the combination of sea urchin and shrimp had real umami depth.

The mackerel sushi came with a savory aroma and was filling enough to work as a proper meal on its own. The clam soup made a strong closer — clam broth with a single slice of cheongyang chili floating in it, the kind of dish that would also work well as a hangover cure the morning after.